Although I usually focus on finding the best solutions for families, my heart (and my stomach) always finds its way back through the cobblestone alleys of Rome. With the 2025 Jubilee seeing the Eternal City welcome millions of pilgrims, the challenge for us parents has not only been crossing the Holy Door but finding a table where we can eat real food, far from the chaos and tourist traps.
I’m Elena, and together with Lorenzo, Leonardo, and little Beatrice, I’ve spent weeks “testing” the gastronomic havens where Roman tradition is still sacred.
Update: If you find yourself in Rome during the spring, don’t miss the tradition of fava beans and pecorino for May Day; Giulia subsequently wrote a wonderful guide on how to experience this authentic ritual among the vineyards of Lazio. Update: If you visit the city in autumn instead, Alessandro subsequently explained how to experience the red carpet atmosphere during the Film Festival. Update: If you’re looking for other Italian adventures, you might find inspiration in Giulia’s subsequent guide to the markets of Palermo. Update: And if you’re wondering how to handle large crowds with kids, I subsequently prepared a survival guide for Siena during the Palio.
Testaccio: Where the Cuisine was Born#
You can’t talk about Roman cuisine without starting from Testaccio, the ancient working-class rione. It’s here that the “fifth quarter” cuisine (offal) was born, but don’t worry: it’s also the most family-friendly place in Rome.
- Felice a Testaccio: It’s an institution since 1936. Their Cacio e Pepe mixed directly at the table is a show that left Leonardo speechless. Lorenzo appreciates the wine list, I appreciate the speed of the service.
- Flavio al Velavevodetto: Built right inside Monte dei Cocci, it offers a carbonara that I would define as “religious.”
Trastevere and the Ghetto: History and Artichokes#
Trastevere is magical, but during the Jubilee it will be very crowded. The secret is to slip into the less-traveled alleys.
- Da Enzo al 29: It’s a small gem. They don’t take reservations for dinner, so show up early for lunch. It’s the perfect refuge after experiencing the emotion of the Festa dei Noantri (Update: I subsequently dedicated a specific guide to this event).
- Ba’Ghetto: In the heart of the Jewish quarter, it’s a mandatory stop for Artichokes alla Giudia. Leonardo calls them “the potato flowers” because they are crunchy outside and tender inside.
Prati and the Vatican: Strategies for Hungry Pilgrims#
If you’ve been to St. Peter’s, hunger will make itself felt. The golden rule: move at least three blocks away from the Vatican walls.
- Hostaria da Pietro: Near Piazza del Popolo, it offers that old Rome atmosphere that I love so much.
- Emma: If the kids ask for pizza and you want serious pasta, Emma is the solution. The space is large and much more comfortable if you have a bulky stroller.
Survival Tips for the 2025 Jubilee#
Traveling in Rome with kids requires an “insider” strategy:
- The “Nasoni” are your best friends: Rome is full of drinking fountains offering fresh, free water. Don’t spend 5 euros for a plastic bottle!
- Life-saving Street Food: If the lines at restaurants are too long, go for the Supplì. They are complete meals, cheap, and kids love them.
For a sweet moment, Update: my colleague Marco subsequently compiled a ranking of the 5 best authentic gelaterias in Rome.
Rome at the table is a warm embrace. It’s the laughter among friends and the joy of sharing a moment of authentic beauty while the whole world converges towards this eternal city.