Ciao a tutti, I’m Luca.
While the masses are currently elbowing each other for a selfie in Vernazza or waiting in hour-long lines for a train in Monterosso, I’m sitting on a sun-warmed stone ledge with nothing but the sound of the sea, reminiscent of the tranquil scenes I’ve discovered in other Italian towns. In my previous post about Pitigliano, I shared my love for this charming town, and since then, I’ve had the chance to explore its winding streets and discover even more hidden gems. If you’re still searching for your next Italian fix, I highly recommend checking out my comprehensive guide to this Tuscan treasure.
Most tourists never find this spot, and honestly? Part of me wants to keep it that way. But for those of you who crave the real Italy—the one that smells of salt spray and wild basil, not tour bus exhaust—I have to tell you about Tellaro.
Located at the very tip of the Gulf of Poets in Liguria, Tellaro is often called the “sixth town” of the Cinque Terre, but it feels worlds apart. It’s a fortified maritime village where the houses are painted in sun-faded pinks and ochres, seemingly clinging to the cliffs for dear life, a type of setting that I’ve always been drawn to. In a later post, I’ll dive deeper into the stories behind this enchanting village, but for now, let’s just say that Tellaro has a way of capturing the hearts of all who visit.
Why Tellaro Beats the Crowds#
The beauty of Tellaro is that it’s technically “inaccessible” by train. That single fact keeps 90% of the day-trippers away. There is no grand piazza filled with souvenir plastic; instead, there are narrow caruggi (alleys) that twist and turn like a labyrinth, designed centuries ago to confuse invading pirates. This unique layout is a testament to the town’s rich history, and since I wrote this, I’ve explored more of Liguria’s hidden corners, discovering even more secrets and stories waiting to be uncovered. If you’re interested in delving deeper into the world of underground wonders, I recommend checking out my colleague Alessandro’s post on the Greco-Roman secrets of Naples.
- The Sea is the Soul: Unlike other coastal towns that have been “sanitized” for tourism, Tellaro’s small harbor is still a working space. You’ll see local fishermen mending nets right on the slipway.
- The Octopus Legend: Ask a local about the giant octopus. Legend has it that in the middle of the night, a massive octopus climbed out of the sea to ring the church bells, warning the village of a midnight Saracen pirate attack. You’ll see octopus motifs everywhere—it’s the village’s rebellious spirit animal.
The Secret Spots You Can’t Miss#
My secret tip is to head straight for the Chiesa di San Giorgio. It’s a stunning pastel-pink church built right on the water’s edge. While everyone else is looking at the facade, walk around to the rocks behind it. There’s a tiny, unmarked path that leads down to some flat boulders. It’s the perfect place to jump into the deep blue water away from any “official” beaches.
If you want something different, skip the main coastal road and take the trail leading toward Barbazzano. These are the ruins of an ancient hillside village that was abandoned centuries ago due to the plague. Walking through the overgrown stone arches feels like stepping into a forgotten world. Most people don’t even know these ruins exist, but the view of the coastline from up there is unparalleled.
How to Experience Tellaro Like a Local#
- Eat at the Source: Don’t look for a menu with pictures. Find a small osteria and ask for Polpo alla Tellarese (octopus with potatoes, olives, and pine nuts). It’s the village’s signature dish and tastes like the Mediterranean on a plate.
- The Golden Hour: Stay until sunset. When the sun dips below the horizon, the pink houses of Tellaro glow with an intensity that no Instagram filter can replicate.
- Ditch the Car: Parking is a nightmare. Take the local bus from Lerici or, better yet, hike the coastal path. It keeps the adventure alive.
Practical Tips for the Adventurous#
- Best Time to Visit: May or September. The weather is perfect, and you’ll have the alleys almost entirely to yourself.
- Getting There: Take a train to La Spezia, then a local bus to Lerici, and finally the small orange “Circolare” bus to Tellaro. It’s a bit of a mission, but that’s exactly why it stays a secret.
- Wear Real Shoes: These volcanic rocks and steep alleys aren’t made for flip-flops.
Tellaro isn’t a place you go to “check off” a list. It’s a place you go to disappear for a while. It’s rugged, it’s authentic, and it’s waiting for those brave enough to skip the famous spots.
Until next time, keep exploring the backstreets.
— Luca