Welcome to Molise, the region that “doesn’t exist” but which, I assure you, pulses with an overwhelming life, history, and magic! I’m Elena. If you’re looking for an experience that combines unwavering faith, eighteenth-century engineering, and the pure wonder of children, you must come to Campobasso for the day of Corpus Domini (the parade is held every year on Corpus Domini Sunday; in 2026 it will be on June 7th).
Here we celebrate the Festa dei Misteri, a unique event in the world that transforms the city streets into an open-air theater suspended between heaven and earth. My children, Leonardo and Beatrice, were literally hypnotized by the “flying machines.” It is a journey into wonder that has no equal in Italy.
Molise exists, and how! The Festa dei Misteri is its beating heart. If after the intensity of Campobasso you seek the silence of the peaks, I recommend my guide to wild Abruzzo. If instead you want to cool off on the coast, don’t miss my story on Termoli, an Adriatic pearl perfect for families.
What are the “Misteri”? A Miracle of Balance and Courage#
The “Misteri” are not statues, but living tableaux. The Ingegni are structures born from the genius of the sculptor Paolo Saverio Di Zinno in the mid-18th century. Today 13 of them parade: 12 are the eighteenth-century originals made of a special iron alloy and wood, while the thirteenth, the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Santissimo Cuore di Gesù), was added in 1959. The incredible thing is that these machines carry real people — especially children — suspended in the air, dressed as saints, angels, and devils. Di Zinno’s special iron alloy is so flexible that the structures sway with the rhythmic march of the bearers. The children really seem to fly above the heads of the crowd! Leonardo kept asking me, “Mom, but how do they not fall?”. I had to explain to him that they are tied by invisible harnesses hidden under the costumes, but for him, it remained pure magic.
The most fun moment for the little ones is the passage of the Mistero of Saint Anthony the Abbot, where the Devils try to frighten and make the crowd laugh with the cry of “Uè, uè, uè!”. Beatrice at first clung tightly to Lorenzo, but then burst out laughing when she saw the devil making faces at the Donzella (The Maiden), the girl who by tradition must remain serious and not yield to the temptations of the evil one.
Advice for Families: The Logistics of the Parade#
Experiencing the parade with children requires a bit of strategy. The city fills up, but with these “mamma-hacks,” you’ll survive without stress:
- The Museo dei Misteri: If you can, visit it the day before (Via Trento, 3). Seeing the “ingegni” at rest helps children understand how they are made and reduces fear when they see them swaying in the air during the parade.
- Where to Position Yourself: For those with a stroller, I strongly recommend Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The streets are wide and allow you to breathe. Avoid the old town area during the passage, as it’s too narrow and crowded.
- The Rite of Dressing: If you are an early riser, go to the Museum around 8:00 AM to see the “vestition” (dressing) of the characters. It is a solemn and very emotional moment.
- Shade and Relaxation: When the June sun gets strong, escape to Villa de Capoa. It is the most beautiful park in Campobasso, with tree-lined avenues and Italian gardens where children can run freely after being still watching the parade.
Flavors of Campobasso: More Than Just Pasta and Ragù#
After so much excitement, hunger will make itself felt. Molisan cuisine is genuine and perfect for children’s palates:
- Pizza de’ Randin: It is a cornbread pizza, often served with wild herbs (minestra). Leonardo devoured it!
- Cavatelli: The typical pasta par excellence. Try them with a slow-cooked pork ragù, a real comfort food.
- Scamorza Passita: A stringy cheese that warms the heart.
- Where to Eat: I recommend La Grotta di Zi’ Concetta for an authentic atmosphere or Aciniello to taste the best cavatelli in town. Both are very welcoming to families and usually have high chairs.
Beyond Campobasso: Discovering Molise#
Don’t leave immediately after the festival! Molise hides archaeological treasures and landscapes that seem to have come out of a fairy tale.
- Castello Monforte: Climb to the top to enjoy a crazy view that reaches as far as the sea. The climb through the alleys of the historic center is great exercise for the children.
- Saepinum (Altilia): A few miles from Campobasso, there is an almost intact Roman city where you can walk through the ruins in total freedom. There are no barriers; it is a paradise for little explorers.
Campobasso and its Misteri are proof that the most beautiful traditions are those that still know how to make us look up at the sky. It is a journey into wonder that your children will never forget.
Aggiornamento: My colleague Luca recently published a guide to the serene and secluded lagoons of Veneto, which I highly recommend checking out if you’re looking to escape the crowds and experience the true tranquility of this beautiful region. Since writing this, Luca explored the lesser-known corners of Veneto, uncovering hidden gems that showcase the area’s untapped beauty. For more information on these enchanting destinations, take a look at Discovering Veneto’s Hidden Lagoons.