Forget the usual crowded markets and the artificial lights of shopping malls; if you really want to feel the pulse of Christmas, you must come to Gubbio. While most tourists stop at the usual destinations, I prefer to lose myself among the silent stone alleys of this medieval village suspended in time. But when darkness falls in December, the slopes of Mount Ingino suddenly light up, revealing a silhouette of light that literally leaves you speechless. It is the largest Christmas tree in the world, and seeing it live is an experience that shakes your soul. It is a miracle of engineering and passion that transforms the mountain into a beacon of hope. You will never forget it.
The air in Gubbio in winter is biting, smelling of wood burning slowly in fireplaces and of pure air coming down from the Umbrian Apennines. Walking along Via dei Consoli as ice begins to form on the monumental fountains has a hollow sound, almost magical, interrupted only by the distant tolling of the Campanone (the big bell). When you finally find yourself before the immensity of those hundreds of colored lights climbing the rock, you feel a shiver that isn’t due to the cold. It is the feeling of being before something immense yet intimate, a tradition that unites an entire community. Every light is a lit wish.
Most people look at the tree from the main square, Piazza Grande, and it is undoubtedly a breathtaking view that is worth the trip. But my insider secret is different: go up to the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo, right at the top of the mountain, using the cable car if the wind permits. Finding yourself right “inside” the luminous silhouette, with the city of Gubbio looking like a small delicate nativity scene at your feet, is an indescribable emotion. From up there, the world seems calmer, and the lights seem like fallen stars you can almost touch. It is the perfect place to escape. Breathe the icy air.
Don’t forget to explore the San Martino district, where a life-size nativity scene is set up every year along the narrow streets of the village. The terracotta and wood statues seem to come to life among the artisan workshops and old damp cellars, creating a suggestive path that takes you back centuries. It is here that you find the truest Umbria, the one that doesn’t need digital special effects to enchant the traveler. Stop in one of the small taverns for a glass of red wine and a slice of warm crescia di Gubbio. You will taste the earth.
For the best photo without the crowds, head to the Parco Ranghiasci. This neo-Gothic park offers a lateral perspective of the mountain where the lights of the tree reflect on the stone walls of the lower city, creating a unique visual symmetry.
The genius of the ‘Alberaioli’ and the challenge of the mountain#
Behind the magic of those lights is the tireless work of the “alberaioli,” a group of local volunteers who start climbing Mount Ingino in September. Every year, with a dedication that moves the heart, these men position kilometers of cables and hundreds of light fixtures along a steep 750-meter slope. It is not just technical maintenance; it is an act of love for their roots that has been renewed since 1981, the year of the first experimental lighting. In 1991, the tree officially entered the Guinness World Records, a record it still proudly holds today. It is a victory over gravity. The cables run fast.
The assembly requires months of effort, defying wind, rain, and sometimes the first autumn snowfalls on the Umbrian peaks. Every light point must be placed with millimetric precision so that the fir’s silhouette is perfect even from kilometers away. The official lighting traditionally takes place on December 7th, the eve of the Immaculate Conception, with a ceremony involving international personalities and all the citizens. This is the moment when Gubbio officially opens its Christmas, transforming into a magical city. Darkness becomes light.
A curiosity that few know is that the tree is now powered entirely by renewable energy sources, making it a symbol of environmental as well as cultural sustainability. This link between tradition and the future is what makes Gubbio a unique example in the landscape of Italian villages. When you look at that comet star shining on top of the Basilica, remember that behind every bulb is the hand and heart of a citizen of Gubbio. It is a collective work of art that has no equal in the world. It shines for all of us.
Navigating the stone village: logistical tips#
Moving around Gubbio in December requires some planning, as the historic center is almost entirely pedestrian and the slopes are significant. I recommend parking your car in the lots at the foot of the city, such as the one in Piazza Quaranta Martiri, and continuing on foot or using the public elevators. The stone streets can be very slippery due to ice or evening humidity, so shoes with a good sole are mandatory. Do not underestimate the effort of the climbs; every step tells a medieval story. The stone is hard and noble.
The “Colle Eletto” cable car is the most spectacular way to reach the top of the mountain, but always check the hours and weather conditions on the official website. The “cages” are open and offer a 360-degree view of the valley below, but they can be very cold during the evening ascent. If you decide to go on foot, the path starting from the center requires about 40 minutes of steady walking and good physical fitness. The final reward, however, is worth every drop of sweat shed. The panorama will fully repay you. Watch the infinite horizon.
Regarding food, the crescia di Gubbio is a moral obligation for anyone visiting the city in winter. It is a type of unleavened flatbread, cooked on stone, served hot stuffed with local cold cuts or sautéed field greens. Accompanied by a glass of Sagrantino or another robust Umbrian red, it is the perfect dinner after a day spent in the cold. Many historic bakeries prepare it all day, flooding the alleys with an inviting aroma that is impossible to resist. It is the taste of Umbria. Eat with slow enjoyment.
What I really can’t stand: I detest people who come to Gubbio just to take a quick selfie with the tree in the background and then run away immediately after. This village deserves respect and time; rushing through its millenary alleys is an insult to its deep and noble history. And please, don’t complain if it’s cold: we are in the mountains, it’s December, and the cold is part of the sacred magic. Bundle up well and enjoy the silence of the village; it is the most precious thing this city has to offer.
If after this Christmas tour you want to discover another hidden gem of Umbria, I recommend my guide on Rasiglia. Or, to stay in the theme of spiritual atmosphere, discover the Living Nativity of Matera told by Alessandro.
Merry Christmas from Gubbio, the city of stone and light!