Nestled just a few miles south of its more famous neighbors, the Cinque Terre, lies the enchanting town of Lerici. Known as the heart of the “Gulf of Poets,” this beautiful seaside haven offers all the pastel-colored charm of Liguria—medieval castles and crystal-clear waters—but with a much more relaxed and welcoming pace for those traveling with children.
I’m Elena, and today I want to explain why Lerici is the perfect base for your next Ligurian adventure. For my family, it is the place where Liguria becomes “easy”: a place where you can breathe, walk with a stroller without going crazy between steps, and let the little ones run freely in the piazza.
Lerici is a gem that shines with its own light. If you are looking for a similar atmosphere, equally authentic and without the crowds, I also recommend reading my colleague Marco’s story about Camogli, another splendid alternative to the more beaten paths.
Why Families Love Lerici: Space and Freedom#
Unlike many other Ligurian villages perched on the rock, Lerici offers flat and wide spaces, a true blessing for us parents. The highlight is the Lungomare (Seafront): a wonderful and entirely pedestrian walk that connects Lerici to the hamlet of San Terenzo. It is about 2 kilometers of flat road, perfect for strollers and for Leonardo’s first runs on a bicycle or skates. Along the way, there are benches, gelaterias, and small equipped playgrounds where you can stop and watch the sea while the children let off steam.
Prehistoric Adventures at the Castle#
If you think a medieval castle might bore children, you’ve never been to the Castello di Lerici. Inside, you’ll find the Paleontology Museum, and I assure you that for Leonardo and Beatrice, it was the number one attraction. Did you know that dinosaur footprints dating back millions of years were found right in the surroundings of Lerici? Seeing the models of dinosaurs within the ancient walls of the fortress is an experience that sparks the imagination. Beatrice spent half an hour “talking” to a small dinosaur, while Leonardo tried to figure out how they walked on the rocks. The climb to the castle, via a convenient elevator or a panoramic staircase, offers a view of the entire gulf as far as Portovenere. It’s a continuous discovery, which strongly reminds me of the magic of another gem located just a few minutes away: Tellaro.
Venere Azzurra: Sandy Beaches and Calm Sea#
A rarity on this part of the coast! Between Lerici and San Terenzo lies the beach of Venere Azzurra. Here you will find golden sand and, above all, a seabed that slopes gently. It is the ideal place for the little ones’ first swims in total safety. There are both stretches of free beach and equipped beach clubs that offer every comfort. Lorenzo really appreciates the cleanliness of the waters (Lerici is often a Blue Flag beach), while I enjoy the fact that I can keep an eye on the children without having to navigate between sharp rocks. If you are looking for other adventures on the water in iconic cities, don’t forget my guide on how to visit Venice with kids.
Ferries: Seeing the Cinque Terre Without Stress#
From Lerici, very convenient ferries depart for Portovenere and the Cinque Terre. For a family, this is the best solution: no crowded trains, no endless stairs in the stations. You get on the boat, enjoy the wind in your hair, and admire the colorful villages from the sea. It’s a panoramic experience that children live as a trip on a pirate ship. If, on the other hand, you prefer the crystal-clear sea but further south, I recommend my guide on magical Sperlonga.
Practical Tips from Mama to Mama#
- ZTL and Parking: Lerici is almost entirely closed to traffic, which makes it incredibly safe. The secret is to park at Park Vallata (at the entrance to the town) and take the free shuttle. It is frequent and drops you right in the center, saving you the stress of looking for an impossible spot. If you are planning a tour of the art cities, remember that car management is fundamental, as I explain in the guide to parking in Florence.
- The Focaccia of San Terenzo: You can’t leave without buying a piece of warm Ligurian focaccia. It’s the perfect snack for children on the beach or during the walk.
- Geopaleontological Museum: Always check the opening hours of the castle, especially in the off-season, so you don’t miss the dinosaur section!
Lerici is the place where Liguria becomes easy, even with children. It is a warm embrace that will make you want to return, year after year, to find that slowness and that blue that only the Gulf of Poets can offer.
Safe travels to the Riviera! Elena