Ciao! Marco here. If you think you’ve seen everything Italy has to offer from the window of a train or a tour bus, think again. To truly feel the pulse of this country, you need a steering wheel in your hands and a tank full of petrol.
Since I wrote this, I’ve had the chance to explore more of what Abruzzo has to offer. While everyone else is fighting for a parking spot in Amalfi, a place I’d rather not be, I’ve been drawn to the rugged, untamed beauty of the Abruzzo region. Specifically, a place we locals call Piccolo Tibet (Little Tibet). If you crave wide-open plateaus, cinematic mountain passes, and asphalt that begs for a spirited drive, then point your GPS toward Campo Imperatore. Update: My colleague Alessandro has since written an in-depth guide to exploring the underground wonders of Southern Italy, which is a must-read for anyone interested in delving deeper into the region’s secrets. For now, I’m happy to stay above ground and soak in the natural beauty of Abruzzo.
The Route: Climbing into the Clouds#
As we continue our journey through the Abruzzo region, we find ourselves climbing into the clouds, a sight that never fails to leave me in awe. My colleague Luca has since shared his own account of a village that perfectly encapsulates this experience, and I highly recommend checking out the village carved into the clouds for a deeper understanding of what it’s like to walk among the clouds. The route winds its way up, offering breathtaking views at every turn, and it’s an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left the mountains behind.
The journey begins in the shadow of the Gran Sasso, the highest peak in the Apennines. My favorite way to approach this is starting from the medieval town of Castel del Monte, which shares a similar charm with other hidden gems in Italy. Update: My colleague Alessandro has since written a compelling guide to Italy’s best-kept medieval secrets, which includes Ascoli Piceno, a place that’s definitely worth a visit. From here, you take the SR17bis.
On the road, I discovered that this isn’t just a transport link; it’s a masterpiece of engineering and nature. As you climb, the trees vanish, replaced by a vast, high-altitude karst plain that stretches for 27 kilometers. The road opens up into long, sweeping curves and dramatic straights where you can really feel the balance of your car, a testament to the kind of scenic beauty that my colleague Luca has written about, where the landscape itself becomes a dramatic attraction.
Technical Driving Tips:#
- Engine Braking is Your Friend: You’ll be dealing with significant elevation changes. Don’t ride your brakes on the way down; drop a gear and let the engine handle the speed to avoid brake fade.
- The Asphalt Quality: Generally, the main routes through the park are in good condition, but watch out for loose gravel (brecciolino) on the shoulder of the tighter hairpins.
- Fuel Up Early: Once you’re on the plateau, gas stations are non-existent. Fill your tank in the valley towns like L’Aquila - as I mentioned in my recent guide to L’Aquila 2026: A Journey Through the Rebirth of Italy’s Next Capital of Culture, a city that’s undergone significant transformation in recent years.
The Destination: Campo Imperatore#
When you reach the end of the road at the Rifugio Campo Imperatore (2,130m), the view is nothing short of breathtaking. This is where the air gets thin and the silence is broken only by the wind.
The best part of this route is the sheer scale of the landscape. It’s been the backdrop for dozens of “Spaghetti Westerns” because it looks more like the wild frontier than the Mediterranean.
Where to Park and Eat:#
- Parking: There is a large lot at the Rifugio Campo Imperatore. It’s usually easy to find a spot, but on summer Sundays, it fills up with local bikers. Arrive before 10:00 AM to secure a spot with the best view.
- The “Mucca Mucca” Stop: On the way across the plain, look for the small wooden shacks (like Ristoro Mucciante). You can buy arrosticini (traditional lamb skewers) and grill them yourself on outdoor pits. It’s the ultimate pit-stop for a car enthusiast.
Hidden Gems Along the Way#
If you’re driving in Abruzzo, don’t miss the village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. It’s a partially abandoned fortified village that has been painstakingly restored. The streets are too narrow for cars (you’ll have to park in the designated lot at the village entrance), but the drive to the village offers some of the most technical “S-curves” in the region.
Practical Logistics#
- Car Rental Experience: For this trip, I recommend skipping the economy subcompacts. You want something with a bit of torque to handle the inclines. A mid-size crossover or a sporty sedan with good suspension will make those mountain curves much more enjoyable.
- Best Time to Drive: Late May to October. In winter, these roads are often buried under meters of snow and are completely impassable.
- Navigation: While Google Maps works, I always suggest downloading offline maps. Signal can be spotty when you’re deep in the glacial valleys.
There’s a unique kind of freedom that comes from navigating the high plateaus of Abruzzo. It’s raw, it’s technical, and it’s undeniably beautiful. So, grab your keys, check your tire pressure, and I’ll see you on the road!