Ciao to all my fellow wandering parents. I’m Elena. If you’ve been following my journey, you know that I believe travel with children shouldn’t just be about survival—it should be about shared wonder, as I wrote in my guide to navigating the Palio in Siena with kids. Today, I want to take you to a place that has captured my heart for its sheer, unhurried elegance: Griante.
Since I wrote this, my colleague Elena recently published an article about the village of Rasiglia, which is often referred to as Italy’s most enchanting hidden secret. The Village of Streams: Why Rasiglia is Italy’s Most Enchanting Hidden Secret. While the world rushes to Bellagio and Varenna, those of us “in the know” often find ourselves on the western shore of Lake Como, in a small village that feels like a warm embrace. Griante is situated in the Zoca de l’Oli (the Bay of Oil), so named because the waters are consistently calm and the microclimate is exceptionally mild. In fact, my colleague Luca has written about the charm of such hidden gems, and as he recently explored in his article about a similar setting, these types of villages offer a unique experience. It is, quite simply, the most strategic and serene base for a multi-generational family holiday. <
Why Griante? The Gentle Alternative#
If you’re looking for a gentle alternative to the more crowded Italian destinations, Griante is an excellent choice. My colleague Marco has a wonderful guide to another hidden gem that serves as a great alternative, which you can find in his article about Camogli: The Authentic Alternative to Cinque Terre You Need to Visit, showcasing that sometimes the best experiences can be found in lesser-known spots.
Most people visit Lake Como and experience the “ferry frenzy”—the constant hustle of hopping between crowded hubs. Griante offers a different rhythm. It sits directly across from Bellagio, meaning you have the panoramic views of the “Pearl of the Lake” without the claustrophobic crowds. If you’re looking for another off-the-beaten-path destination to visit, my colleague Marco has a wonderful guide to an authentic alternative to Cinque Terre, which is definitely worth a visit.
For families, the primary advantage is space and safety. The village is split into two parts: the lakeside Griante-Cadenabbia (where the grand hotels are) and the historic Griante Alta (where the locals live and the quiet villas are hidden). As someone who’s always on the lookout for great destinations for families, I can attest that this setup is ideal - much like skiing with kids in Bormio, the affordable Olympic alternative for families, where I’ve found that the right location can make all the difference in creating a memorable and stress-free vacation.
I remember the first time I brought my children here. We stayed in a restored wing of a 17th-century villa. Instead of worrying about them running into narrow, cobbled streets packed with tourists, they were running through gardens filled with ancient magnolias and cedar trees.
The Best Family Villas in Griante#
If you are traveling as a large family, forget hotels. You need a kitchen, a garden, and—let’s be honest—a laundry machine. Griante is famous for its private villas and holiday apartments that offer better value than the prestigious neighbors.
- Villa Collina: Historically known as the holiday home of Chancellor Konrad Adenauer, this villa is iconic. While you might not rent the whole palace, there are several apartments nearby that share that same “Chancellor’s View.”
- The Apartments of Cadenabbia: Many of the historic buildings right on the water have been converted into spacious family apartments. You get the high ceilings and frescos of the Belle Époque with modern amenities.
- Griante Alta Rentals: If you go up the hill, you’ll find modern villas with swimming pools. Having a pool is a game-changer for kids after a hot day of exploring.
Elena’s Insider Tips for Griante#
- The Greenway del Lago di Como: This is my number one recommendation for families. It’s a 10km walking path that passes right through Griante. It’s mostly flat, paved, and incredibly scenic. You can do a small section (like Griante to Lenno) in an hour, which is perfect for little legs.
- The Hidden “Lido”: While most people go to the expensive beach clubs, there is a small, public pebble beach right near the ferry terminal in Cadenabbia. It’s free, the water is crystal clear, and the local kids jump off the stone walls every afternoon.
- Dining for All Ages: We always go to Ristorante Belle Isole. It’s family-run, the terrace is right on the water, and they make a Risotto con Filetti di Pesce Persico (perch risotto) that even my pickiest eater loved.
Logistics: Getting Around Without the Stress#
Getting to Griante is easier than most think. It is directly opposite the main ferry hub.
- From Milan: Take the train from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni. From there, the C10 bus runs right along the lake to Griante/Cadenabbia. Or, take the fast ferry from Como.
- The Ferry Trick: Use the Cadenabbia-Bellagio car ferry even if you are on foot. It runs more frequently than the passenger ferries and is a 10-minute hop.
A Moment of Peace at San Martino#
If you have older kids, you must do the hike up to the Church of San Martino. It sits on a rocky ledge high above Griante. It’s a steep 45-minute walk, but the reward is a 360-degree view of the entire lake. I once sat there with my daughter as the sunset turned the water into a sheet of silver. No bells, no sirens, just the sound of the wind.
Griante isn’t about checking boxes on a tourist list; it’s about waking up to the sound of water, eating gelato on the stone wall, and watching your children discover the magic of the Italian lakes at their own pace.
With love,
Elena