Ciao to all my fellow wandering parents! I’m Elena. If you’ve been following my journey, you know that I firmly believe traveling with children shouldn’t just be about surviving the logistics (though sometimes it feels like a feat, as I shared in my guide to Siena and the Palio with Kids), but about shared wonder and discovery. Today, I want to take you to a place that has captured my heart for its quiet elegance and slow pace: Griante.
While the rest of the world rushes toward the crowded streets of Bellagio and Varenna, those of us who know the Lario well take refuge on the western shore, in a small village that feels like a warm embrace. Griante is situated in what is known as the Zoca de l’Oli (the Bay of Oil), so named because the waters here are consistently as calm as oil and the microclimate is exceptionally mild, protecting the village from the coldest winds. It is, quite simply, the most strategic and serene base for a family holiday I have ever experienced.
My husband Lorenzo likes to joke that you come to Griante to “unlearn how to rush.” And he’s right. If you’re looking for an equally authentic and less crowded alternative for your Italian holiday, I recommend reading my colleague Marco’s story on Camogli in Liguria; you’ll find that same spirit of resistance to mass tourism.
Why Griante is the Smart Choice for Families#
The primary advantage of Griante is its location. It sits directly across from Bellagio, meaning you have the most beautiful panoramic view of the entire lake without having to endure the claustrophobic crowds.
For those traveling with children, space and safety are everything. The village is split into two distinct souls: Cadenabbia, located directly on the lake with its historic period hotels (Queen Victoria herself used to stay here!), and Griante Alta, the elevated historic heart where wonderful villas are hidden amidst centuries-old gardens.
I still remember the first time I brought Leonardo and Beatrice here. Instead of having to hold their hands in narrow, dark alleys, they could run among manicured lawns and paths lined with giant magnolias and Lebanon cedars. Choosing Griante is a bit like deciding to ski in Bormio with the kids: you choose quality and practicality over a more famous name that is less livable.
What to Do in Griante with Children: Adventures on Land and Water#
- The Greenway del Lago di Como: Griante is one of the most beautiful stops on this 10km walking path that winds through the villages. The stretch that passes through Griante is almost entirely flat and safe, far from the traffic of the main road. It’s perfect for a stroll with a stroller. Leonardo loves stopping to watch the turtles that often sunbathe near the small docks.
- San Martino Sanctuary: This is Lorenzo’s favorite adventure. It’s about a 45-minute walk leading to a small church perched on a rocky ledge overlooking the lake. The incline is steady, but the path is well-marked. However, I recommend leaving the stroller at home and using a baby carrier or backpack. The view from up there—a 360-degree panorama embracing the lake all the way to the tip of Bellagio—will leave even the most energetic children speechless.
- The Ferry Ritual: Ferries leave from Cadenabbia every few minutes. For Beatrice, boarding the boat is the highlight of the day. You can “hop” from one shore to another in total relaxation, enjoying the lake breeze while the children watch the waves.
Staying in a Villa: The Local Secret#
Renting a villa or an apartment in Griante Alta is the best way to feel like part of the community. You can shop at the village’s small groceries, where the owners will start calling your children by name after the second day, and enjoy the magical silence of the evening once the last ferry loaded with day-trippers has departed.
The houses here are often more spacious than hotels in the more famous centers and offer that “home away from home” feeling that is fundamental for us parents. If you are planning a tour through Italy’s historic regions and also love intense flavors, I suggest taking a look at Alessandro’s guide on the 2025 Wine Grand Tour, which includes stops in Tuscany easily reachable from the North.
Elena’s Tip: Villa Carlotta#
You cannot leave Griante without crossing the border into Tremezzo (they are practically joined) to visit Villa Carlotta. Its botanical gardens are a true labyrinth of colors and scents. There is an area dedicated to succulents that the children find fascinating and citrus tunnels that look like something out of a fairy tale.
If after so much walking you feel like a bit of city “dolce vita” and amazing food, know that Milan is only an hour’s train ride from Como. In that case, I’ve recently added Marco’s personal favorites in his guide to the 5 best gelaterias, which is worth checking for its local insights.
Griante is the place where the beauty of Lake Como becomes intimate, tactile, and familiar. It’s the perfect place to unplug, forget the clock, and create those simple memories—like a gelato eaten on a stone wall—that will last a lifetime.
See you soon, Elena