If you are looking for that perfect balance between a relaxing seaside escape and a place where your children can run safely among Venetian-style canals and golden beaches, let me introduce you to a place my family holds dear: Grado.
I’m Elena, and nestled between the lagoon and the Adriatic Sea in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Grado is often called “The Sunny Island” or even the “Mother Island.” As a mother myself, I find this nickname so fitting. There is a nurturing and protective quality to this town that you won’t find in the more crowded tourist hubs. It is a place where the pace slows down, the water remains shallow for hundreds of meters, and the scent of salt air mixes with that of fresh fish being cooked in the alleys of the castrum.
Nestled between Venice and Trieste, Grado is a gem that shines with its own light. If after the peace of the lagoon you are looking for the adrenaline of medieval traditions in Tuscany, (Update: don’t miss my guide to Siena with Kids), an intense but unforgettable experience.
Why Grado is a Parents’ Paradise#
The beauty of Grado lies in its protected geography. It sits on an island connected to the mainland by two bridges, which gives it a secluded and safe atmosphere. My husband Lorenzo really appreciates the fact that the historic center is almost entirely pedestrianized. Leonardo and Beatrice can walk a little ahead of us without me constantly having my heart in my throat because of traffic.
The real strength is the extremely shallow waters. You can walk out for dozens of meters and the water will still only reach the children’s knees. It is an invaluable peace of mind that reminds me a lot of the atmosphere I described when talking about Castiglione della Pescaia.
The Beaches: 5-Star Services for the Little Ones#
In Grado, beach management is an art.
- Main Beach (GIT): This is an equipped beach where you pay a small entrance fee, but the services are incredible. There are play areas, mini-clubs with animation, and even rooms dedicated to breastfeeding and diaper changes. My children love the tide pools that form during the day: they are like natural pools where they can observe little crabs and shells without any danger.
- Costa Azzurra Beach: This is the free beach (but with the possibility of rental) located at the end of the promenade. It is wilder and more suggestive, perfect for watching the sunset while the children build the last sandcastle of the day. If you love equally peaceful lake atmospheres, (Update: I recommend reading my colleague Sofia’s story about a romantic escape to Monte Isola).
Beyond the Sea: Marine Spas and the Water Park#
Grado has been famous since the time of the Habsburgs for its marine treatments. If you catch a less sunny day, take the children to the Terme Marine (Marine Spas). There is an indoor pool with heated seawater that is a panacea. Right next to the main beach, there is also the Water Park, with pools, slides, and water games. Leonardo spent hours on the slide, while with Beatrice we stayed in the area of the gentle water jets. It is an excellent alternative when you want to change pace from the traditional beach.
Exploring the Lagoon and the Casoni#
A fantastic way to make memories as a family is to rent a boat or take the ferry to explore the lagoon. We took the children to see the casoni, the typical fishermen’s dwellings with thatched roofs. They look like elf houses and Leonardo was convinced that one would come out at any moment! It is a silent landscape made of reed beds and small canals, where we spotted herons and even some pink flamingos in the Val Cavanata Reserve. Just as I’ve learned during our travels, (Update: organization is everything, as I explained in my guide to skiing in Bormio with kids).
A Dip into History: Aquileia#
Just a ten-minute drive or bus ride away is Aquileia, a UNESCO site that is a real open-air history lesson. Don’t let the idea of a “museum” scare you: the mosaics of the Basilica are very colorful and full of animals and fishing scenes that fascinate even the smallest children. We played “find the hidden animal” with Leonardo among the mosaics, turning the cultural visit into a treasure hunt. It is an educational experience that enriches the seaside holiday.
Local Flavors: Boreto alla Graisana#
You can’t leave without having tried the local cuisine. Boreto is the typical fish soup of Grado. Unlike that of Vasto or other areas, it is made with little tomato and a lot of pepper, accompanied by white polenta. Lorenzo is crazy about it! For the children, the restaurants in the historic center are always ready with a plate of fresh pasta with white fish sauce, delicate and nutritious. For dessert, look for the bakeries that sell the typical biscuits of the area.
Practical Tips from Mama to Mama#
- Mosquito Protection: Being surrounded by the lagoon, mosquitoes can be annoying in the evening. Bring an effective repellent and prefer light cotton clothes but with long sleeves for outdoor dinners.
- Move by Bike: Grado is completely flat. Rent bicycles for the entire duration of your stay: it is the most beautiful and fastest way to move between the beach and the center.
- The Gelato: The pedestrian area of the old town is full of ice cream parlors. Use it as a “reward” after the cultural visit to Aquileia!
Grado is a place where you can finally exhale. It is small enough to make you feel at home in a few hours, but rich enough in nuances to stay in your heart forever.
Safe travels to the Island of the Sun! Elena