If you truly want to understand why Lake Como has enchanted the whole world for centuries, you must have the courage to lift your feet off the ground and look at it from above. There is a privileged perspective, a point where the water stops being a dark surface to become a precious mirror set among the mountains. To reach it, you don’t need a helicopter, but something much more romantic and timeless: the historic Como-Brunate funicular.
I am Sofia, and today I want to invite you to experience what I consider a true dreamy retreat above the clouds of the Lario. Inaugurated in 1894, this funicular is not just a means of transport but a time machine that, in just seven minutes, takes you from the refined bustle of the Como lakeside to the aristocratic peace of Brunate. It is an ascent that takes your breath away, not because of the speed, but because of the way the landscape gradually reveals itself, unveiling the perfect shape of the lake and the majestic silhouette of the Alps that seem almost within reach.
Update: As the colorful carriages climb the side of the mountain, the noise of the city fades, replaced by the reassuring hum of the cables and the rustle of the wind through the trees. It is the beginning of an escape that will lead you to discover Art Nouveau villas immersed in centuries-old gardens. If after this ascent you seek the elegance of secluded villas on the lakeshore, I have shared a guide to the most intimate shelters where the water caresses dreams.
Brunate: The Balcony over the Alps#
Arriving in Brunate means immersing yourself in an atmosphere of other times. Nicknamed the “balcony over the Alps,” this village has been for decades the summer retreat of the Milanese bourgeoisie, who built eclectic residences here that look like something out of a fairy tale. Walking through its silent alleys, hand in hand, is a ritual that regenerates the senses. The air here is different: fresher, purer, loaded with the scent of moss and wet earth.
The villas that line the streets of Brunate are small masterpieces of the Art Nouveau (Liberty) style, with their floral decorations and wrought-iron railings that look like lace. If, on the other hand, you are looking for an experience more suitable for the whole family just a stone’s throw from the water, my colleague Elena has dedicated a post to the villas of Griante, where the lake shows its most welcoming and familiar side.
The Volta Lighthouse and the Hamlet of San Maurizio#
For those who want to walk and let their gaze wander even further, I recommend following the paths that go up towards the hamlet of San Maurizio. It is an uphill walk, through chestnut and beech woods, which culminates in front of the majesty of the Volta Lighthouse. This octagonal tower, built in 1927 to celebrate the centenary of the death of Alessandro Volta, is a symbol of light and ingenuity.
Climbing its 143 spiral steps, you will find yourself on the highest point in the area. On clear days, when the sky is cleaned by the wind, the panorama embraces the entire western Alpine arc: from Monviso to Monte Rosa, to the peaks of Switzerland. It is an embrace of the heights that resizes every daily worry. If after Lombardy you seek another breathtaking view on an island where silence reigns supreme, do not miss my account of Monte Isola on Lake Iseo.
What Bothers Me: When the Crowds Blur the Poetry#
I deeply love the funicular, but I must be honest and confess what bothers me. Nothing ruins the enchantment of this journey more than the miles of queues during hot summer Sundays, when the magic of the ascent is interrupted by the noise of hasty tourism. Brunate requires silence and contemplation. It also hurts me to see some of the historic villas in a state of neglect, with their gardens overrun by weeds that hide the beauty of an era that knew how to celebrate elegance.
Another sour note? Those small, cheap souvenir shops that are starting to appear near the upper funicular station. Brunate should be a place of craftsmanship, slow thoughts, and handwritten postcards. The beauty of these places lies in their ability to resist the most aggressive modernity.
Sofia’s Advice: The Dance of Lights at Twilight#
I leave you with a little secret to make your trip unforgettable. Take the funicular just before sunset. As you climb, watch the lake turn pink and purple; once you arrive in Brunate, stop on the panoramic wall near the station. Watching the lights of Como turn on one by one beneath you, like a carpet of diamonds fallen to earth, as the sky darkens, is one of the most beautiful declarations of love that life can make to you.
Brunate is the place where the lake meets the mountain and where every breath is a promise of infinity. Don’t be in a hurry to go back down. Let the coolness of the evening wrap around you and the silence of the Art Nouveau villas tell you stories of timeless loves.
See you soon, between sky and water,
Sofia