Salve, I’m Alessandro. My true passion lies embedded in the rich history and cultural tapestry of Italy. I spend my time exploring ancient ruins, forgotten medieval towns, and Renaissance masterpieces. When I am visiting an old city, sometimes I feel like Indiana Jones! Today, I want to take you to a place that is very close to my heart—a city that has been forged by fire, earth, and an unbreakable spirit.
In 2026, the city of L’Aquila will take its rightful place as the Italian Capital of Culture. For those who have followed its journey, this isn’t just a title; it is a coronation of resilience. Nestled in the rugged embrace of the Abruzzo region, shadowed by the majestic Gran Sasso mountains, L’Aquila is a living piece of Italian history.
Let me take you on a journey through time as we uncover the fascinating heritage and timeless stories hidden behind every cobblestone in this incredible city, much like the timeless secrets I revealed in my guide to Volterra, Tuscany’s City of Alabaster.
The Legend of the 99: A City Founded on Myth#
To understand L’Aquila, you must understand the number 99. Legend has it that the city was founded in the 13th century by the union of 99 local castles. Each castle built a square, a church, and a fountain. While historians might debate the exact math, the soul of the city thrives on this symmetry.
Update: Since writing this, my colleague Luca recently published a guide to The Town Carved from Stone: Why Pitigliano is Tuscany’s Best-Kept Secret, which beautifully complements our exploration of Pitigliano’s hidden gems. This place has witnessed centuries of transformation, but nowhere is the legend more tangible than at the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle (Fountain of the 99 Spouts). Located in the Borgo Rivera area, near the Rivera gate, this 13th-century masterpiece is a symphony of stone and water, reminiscent of the ancient towns carved from stone, a theme my colleague Luca has beautifully explored. As you walk along the pink and white checkered marble walls, you’ll see 99 unique stone faces—satyrs, monks, and animals—each pouring water into the basins.
Alessandro’s Tip: Visit the fountain in the late afternoon when the sun hits the stone; the glow of the pink marble against the green backdrop of the surrounding hills is nothing short of cinematic.
The Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio: A Pope’s Legacy#
If you follow the Corso Federico II toward the edge of the city, you will find what I consider one of the most beautiful facades in all of Europe: the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio.
Hidden behind these walls is a story that changed the papacy forever. It was here in 1294 that the hermit Pietro del Morrone was crowned Pope Celestine V. He was the first pope to abdicate his throne, a gesture of humility that Dante Alighieri famously (and perhaps unfairly) criticized.
The Basilica is home to the Porta Santa (Holy Door), which is opened once a year during the Perdonanza Celestiniana (the Celestinian Forgiveness). This event, recognized by UNESCO, predates the first Roman Jubilee. Walking through this door, even when it’s closed, feels like stepping through a portal of time. The interior, stripped back to its Romanesque purity after various restorations, offers a meditative silence that is rare in the more crowded cathedrals of Rome or Florence.
The Rebirth: From Ruins to Renaissance#
We cannot speak of L’Aquila without acknowledging the 2009 earthquake. It was a tragedy that shook the world, but the city’s response has been a masterclass in restoration. Walking down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, the city’s main artery, you can see the “L’Aquila of tomorrow” taking shape.
The restoration of Palazzo Ardinghelli is a testament to this. This Baroque jewel now houses MAXXI L’Aquila, an extension of the National Museum of 21st Century Arts. Seeing cutting-edge contemporary art displayed beneath 18th-century frescoes is a profound experience. It reminds us that culture is not just about preserving the past, but about fueling the future.
Where History Meets the Palate: Authentic Aquilano Flavors#
You cannot truly know a city until you have tasted its soil. In L’Aquila, that soil produces “Red Gold”—the Zafferano dell’Aquila DOP (L’Aquila Saffron). Introduced by a Dominican friar in the 14th century, this is widely considered the best saffron in the world.
For an authentic lunch, I always head to Trattoria Da Mariola (Via San Marciano). It is a humble, family-run spot where the traditions are guarded like crown jewels. Order the Maccheroni alla Chitarra with a saffron-infused sauce or the Pecorino di Farindola.
If you want something a bit more sophisticated, L’Opera (Via d’Archivio) offers a modern twist on Abruzzese classics. But for the “real” local experience, you must try the Arrosticini—thin skewers of mutton grilled over a specialized brazier called a canala. While they are common throughout Abruzzo, eating them in a small piazza in L’Aquila as the mountain air begins to cool is an essential rite of passage.
Hidden Gems: The Spanish Fort and San Bernardino#
A living piece of Italian history awaits at the Forte Spagnolo (Spanish Fort). Built in the 16th century during the Spanish occupation, it was designed not to protect the city from outsiders, but to keep the rebellious citizens of L’Aquila in check. Today, its massive dry moat is a favorite spot for locals to walk their dogs, and it houses the skeleton of a prehistoric mammoth found nearby in the 1950s—a true “Indiana Jones” moment for any visitor!
Just a short walk away is the Basilica di San Bernardino da Siena. The climb up the monumental staircase is worth every step. The ceiling inside is a breathtaking expanse of blue and gold woodcarvings, and the mausoleum of the saint is a masterpiece of Renaissance sculpture.
Practical Information for the Modern Traveler#
How to Get There#
L’Aquila is remarkably accessible from Rome, making it a perfect getaway.
- By Bus: This is the preferred method for locals. The TUA or Gasparri buses run frequently from Rome’s Stazione Tiburtina. The journey takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes and offers stunning views of the Apennines.
- By Car: Take the A24 highway (Autostrada dei Parchi). Be prepared for tunnels and breathtaking mountain viaducts.
Best Time to Visit#
To see L’Aquila at its most vibrant, aim for late August during the Perdonanza Celestiniana. The city comes alive with historical reenactments, concerts, and processions. Alternatively, late Spring (May/June) is perfect for hiking in the nearby Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park.
Hidden Booking Secrets#
- Stay in a Palazzo: Instead of standard hotels, look for “Dimore Storiche” (Historic Dwellings). Places like Palazzo Dragonetti allow you to sleep under original frescoes.
- The “Secret” Library: If you can, book a visit to the Biblioteca Provinciale Salvatore Tommasi. It contains manuscripts that date back to the city’s founding.
- Dining: Always call ahead. Many of the best trattorias are small and beloved by locals; even on a Tuesday night, a “prenotazione” is your best friend.
A Final Word from Alessandro#
L’Aquila is a city of layers. It is a place where medieval stone meets modern steel, and where the silence of the mountains meets the warmth of Italian hospitality. As it prepares for its spotlight in 2026, I encourage you to visit now. Witness the scaffolding coming down, hear the bells of the 99 churches, and feel the pulse of a city that refused to vanish.
This city is more than just a destination; it is a testament to the human spirit. I hope to see you there, perhaps sharing a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo in Piazza Duomo, as we watch the shadows of history dance across the stones.
A presto, travel well!