Since I wrote this, I’ve had the chance to explore more of Italy’s lesser-known regions, and I’m reminded of the need to venture beyond the coastal paths of the Cinque Terre. While the views from those trails are indeed magnificent, as a local seeker of silence, I see those lower trails as a highway of tourists. To truly experience the real soul of Liguria, you have to look up, to where the mountain air meets the salt spray, a sensation my colleague Marco has beautifully captured in his exploration of Italy’s legendary mountain roads, Driving the Stelvio Pass: Is Italy’s Legendary Mountain Road Worth the Hype?.
Since writing this, my colleague Alessandro explored the medieval secrets of Bevagna, Umbria, uncovering the ancient secrets of Bevagna, Umbria. As I reflect on our shared passion for Italy’s lesser-known regions, I’m reminded of the Via dei Santuari (the Path of the Sanctuaries), a series of trails that winds through landscapes that feel like an ancient tapestry, woven with secrets and stories. It’s a path that connects the five hilltop sanctuaries overlooking each of the five villages. It’s where the locals go when they want to breathe, and where the views make you feel like you are standing at the edge of the world.
What is the Path of the Sanctuaries?#
Centuries ago, each of the Cinque Terre villages built a sanctuary on the hill above it. These weren’t just religious sites; they were places of refuge and community. The Via dei Santuari is the horizontal link between them. If you’re looking for a similar charming experience without the crowds, my colleague Marco has a wonderful guide to an authentic alternative to Cinque Terre.
Since I wrote this, I’ve had the chance to return to the Sanctuary Path, and I’m reminded of the peaceful atmosphere that awaits you. While the Blue Path (the coastal trail) can feel like a parade, the Sanctuary Path is often empty. You’ll walk through terraced vineyards where the grapes for Sciacchetrà wine grow, pass through chestnut forests, and encounter small springs that have quenching travelers’ thirst for a thousand years. Update: My colleague Marco has recently published a guide to exploring Italy’s most breathtaking landscapes, and while that’s an adventure in itself, I still prefer the serene beauty of the Sanctuary Path.
My Favorite Section: Vernazza to Monterosso (The High Way)#
Most people walk Vernazza to Monterosso along the coast. It’s beautiful, don’t get me wrong. But if you take the ascent toward Nostra Signora di Reggio (above Vernazza), you enter a different world.
- The Ascent: It’s a steep climb out of Vernazza, but the path is well-marked.
- Santuario di Reggio: Here you’ll find a massive, shaded square with an 800-year-old holm oak. It’s the perfect place for a quiet picnic.
- The High Trail: From Reggio, follow the path toward Santuario di Soviore (above Monterosso). This section is relatively flat and stays high on the ridge. To your left are the jagged peaks of the Apennines; to your right, the entire Mediterranean unfolds like a blue carpet.
Why I Love Soviore#
The Sanctuary of Soviore is the oldest in Liguria, dating back to at least the 7th century. It’s a massive complex with a great osteria where you can get a plate of Trenette al Pesto that will change your life.
There’s a specific feeling at Soviore—a sense of ancient permanence. I once spent an hour there just watching the swifts dive around the bell tower. You are only 400 meters above the sea, but it feels like another planet.
Luca’s Practical Hiking Tips#
- Footwear: Do not attempt these trails in flip-flops. The terrain is rocky and uneven. You need proper hiking shoes or at least sturdy sneakers with good grip.
- Water: There are fountains at each sanctuary, but carry at least 1.5 liters with you. The Ligurian sun is unforgiving on these exposed slopes.
- The “Vertical” Tip: If you don’t want to walk the whole 10-15km route, you can do “vertical” hikes. Each village has a path leading directly up to its sanctuary. Take the bus up and walk down to save your knees!
- The App: Download the Cinque Terre Hiking Guide app. It gives real-time updates on trail conditions (which can change due to rain/landslides).
A Trail for the Soul#
Hiking the Path of the Sanctuaries isn’t about reaching a destination; it’s about the rhythm of your boots on the stone, the smell of wild thyme underfoot, and the profound silence that only exists when you are high above the noise of the world.
When you finally descend back into the villages for your evening aperitivo, you’ll carry that mountain peace with you. And when you look up at those white churches on the cliffs, you’ll know the secret they are keeping.
Keep exploring,
Luca