I vividly remember the exhaustion and the wonder of last year, when I walked through Porta Elisa with Beatrice and Leonardo for our first Lucca Comics. The crisp autumn air smelled of roasted chestnuts and recent rain, while the kids stared wide-eyed at elves and medieval knights. Pushing the stroller over the historic cobblestones was a real test of endurance for the wheels. Yet, seeing their eyes light up at that open-air theater made every single effort worthwhile. It was an unforgettable day, but I quickly realized that without a solid strategy, you are in for disaster.
Entering the historic center during the fair, which runs from Wednesday, October 29 to Sunday, November 2 of this year, requires some patience. A colorful tide of visitors fills the main streets, creating an incredible but chaotic backdrop. Moving with kids among plastic swords and dragon wings can become exhausting without a clear destination. Having a detailed plan for breaks and meals makes the difference between a memorable day and a nightmare. Planning ahead is truly the key to a successful visit.
Transport logistics: how to arrive by train#
The train remains the best choice to avoid traffic. Trenitalia organizes special extra train runs and additional carriages from Florence, Pisa, and Viareggio throughout the event. The tracks echo with the whistles of stationmasters and continuous announcements of special arrivals packed with festive passengers. The station is located right next to the walls, making access to the festival immediate and stress-free. Traveling by rail will save you hours of long road queues.
Passenger flow management at the station is highly efficient. The organizers set up one-way pedestrian paths and barriers to prevent dangerous crowding in the underpasses. This system protects families with strollers and ensures an orderly exit even during the peak afternoon hours. Staff members are positioned along the way to point out the directions to the main entrance gates of the fair. Thus, arriving in the city is extremely smooth and safe.
If you decide to drive, pay close attention to the local traffic restrictions. The historic center is entirely a restricted ZTL zone, and electronic camera gates remain active to fine unauthorized cars. Official outer parking lots are expensive and sell out weeks in advance on the Metro srl portal. The remaining spots at the Polo Fiere require long journeys aboard very crowded shuttle buses. Driving here during these days requires impeccable planning.
Tickets and the magic of the free Real Collegio#
Buying tickets for minors follows specific rules that you should know. Children under ten years old enter for free, but they still need a free paper wristband to access the pavilions. You can pick up this special entry pass at the Welcome Desks by showing your kids’ ID documents. This check is necessary to ensure safety inside the fenced exhibition areas of the fair. Remember to make this quick stop before joining the main queues.
The Real Collegio represents a fantastic oasis during the fair. Access to the monumental Family Palace, set up inside this ancient cloister, is completely free for all visitors. You can stroll under the Baroque porticos and admire the large frescoed halls without needing tickets or wristbands. This space offers a refreshing break from the crowds packed into the streets of the historic center. It is an unmissable stop for anyone traveling with children.
The activities organized inside are perfect for every age group. Kids love the large areas dedicated to Lego bricks, where Beatrice and Leonardo spend hours building space castles. The tables dedicated to board games offer the opportunity to try new releases guided by patient demonstrators. The free drawing workshops with professional illustrators who help the little ones create their own comics are also very popular. Here, creativity truly knows no boundaries.
Walking on the walls: the perfect refuge#
The walls of Lucca offer the ideal refuge to unplug. This tree-lined pedestrian loop, over four kilometers long, entirely surrounds the city, offering wide green spaces and benches. Families gather here to let their children run freely far from the chaos of the squares below. Imposing plane trees and ancient limes cast a pleasant, cool shade over the gravel paths. Walking up here will let you rediscover the beauty of a slow break.
The view enjoyed along the path is truly extraordinary. Looking inward, the unmistakable silhouette of the Guinigi Tower stands out with its characteristic ancient holm oaks on top. A bit further away, the geometric profile of the Clock Tower stands as a silent witness of passing time. This aerial perspective allows you to admire the red roofs and hidden gardens of medieval palaces. Kids will surely be fascinated by this unusual and magical view.
Where to eat: tordelli, cecina and buccellato#
Eating well in Lucca requires avoiding the common tourist traps. During the days of the fair, I strongly advise against temporary stands serving reheated food at inflated prices after long waits. The scent of rosemary and warm focaccia drifting from the alleyways will guide you toward the city’s historic small bakeries. Traditional eateries offer freshly prepared local dishes at fair prices, guaranteeing a high-quality lunch break. Always choose local restaurants to support the authentic community.
At Via di Mezzo 85 you will find the historic Trattoria da Leo, a rustic place with a warm welcome. The tordelli lucchesi with meat ragù are handmade and smell intensely of nutmeg. The waiters serve these steaming dishes with extraordinary speed, moving deftly through the friendly bustle of the crowded tables. The atmosphere is warm and genuine, ideal for recharging your energy with the family. Stop here to experience an authentic and restoring lunch.
When you arrive in Lucca, you have to try the cecina at Pizzeria da Felice in Via di Poggio 9. Their hot cecina, a thin and golden chickpea pancake, is baked continuously and is incredibly tasty. Before leaving, stop by Taddeucci in Piazza San Michele to buy the famous buccellato. This traditional ring-shaped cake smells of raisins and aniseed, offering a truly unique flavor. Anyone visiting Lucca cannot miss out on these local delicacies.
Practical survival tips#
Managing the needs of the little ones during the fair is easier than expected. Inside the monumental Real Collegio, you will find a free Baby Pit Stop carefully managed by UNICEF volunteers. This quiet space offers comfortable armchairs for breastfeeding away from the noise of the crowded pavilions. There are also changing tables equipped with diapers and wipes to ensure a change in total serenity. This break will allow you to head out again relaxed and smiling.
Another excellent habit is to always carry a metal water bottle with you. The historic center and the walls of Lucca are rich in ancient stone fountains flowing with fresh water. You can refill them for free, avoiding long queues at bars or accumulating single-use plastic. This simple step is good for your wallet and respects the cleanliness of this medieval city. Lucca’s public water is safe, cold, and thirst-quenching.
Tuscan weather in late October requires very versatile clothing for your family. The damp morning fog often gives way to mild and sunny afternoons under the historic walls. Dressing your children in several light layers will allow you to adapt quickly to these thermal changes. Remember to pack a lightweight waterproof jacket to face any sudden autumn rain showers. Comfortable and well-worn shoes remain the most important accessory of all during these days.
Your children’s safety deserves a little preventive attention to avoid getting lost in the crowds. Write your cell phone number on the children’s arms, covering it with a clear plaster. Establish an agreed and easily recognizable meeting point, such as the fountain in Piazza San Michele or the entrance of the Real Collegio. Explain to the little ones to approach only staff in uniform or other families if they lose sight of you. Prevention will allow you to walk peacefully.
Lucca Comics proves to be a magical experience that unites different generations. Seeing children smile in front of imaginative costumes fully rewards the tiredness at the end of the day. With a pinch of organization and proper timing, the crowd stops being scary and turns into pure fun. We return home tired, with backpacks full of comics and eyes full of wonder. Have a wonderful adventure to all traveling families visiting the fair!