There’s a particular scent that floats in the Roman air at the end of April. It’s not just the scent of wisteria exploding on the boundary walls or that of the first roses. It’s the pungent, herbaceous, and wild smell of fresh broad beans, just picked. For us, here in the heart of Italy, May Day (Primo Maggio) is not just a date on the calendar, but a state of mind that can be summed up in three words: la scampagnata (the countryside outing).
While the rest of Italy is divided between large concerts in the squares and the first escapes to the sea, I prefer to take refuge in the silence of the Lazio hills. There’s something deeply cathartic about leaving the chaos of the capital to slip between the rows of vines in Tuscia or along the gentle slopes of the Castelli Romani. It’s a return to roots, a tribute to the land that is as generous as ever at this time of year.
The ritual always starts the same way: a jute bag full of turgid pods, a wheel of Pecorino Romano DOP, and a short-bladed knife. No forks are needed, no porcelain plates. The real feast is celebrated with hands, sitting on the grass still damp with dew, while the spring sun begins to warm the shoulders.
If you love bold flavors and popular traditions, you might also find Elena’s guide to wellness and digital detox retreats in the Italian countryside interesting, the perfect complement to a day dedicated to slowness. And for those who want to explore Italy through its markets and seasonal festivals, don’t forget to take a look at the other spring itineraries.
The Perfect Match: Broad Beans and Pecorino Romano#
For those who didn’t grow up here, it may seem like an unusual combination. But I assure you that the milky sweetness of the raw broad bean, with its slightly bitter aftertaste, is the only counterpoint capable of taming the explosive and spicy saltiness of Pecorino Romano. My grandmother always said that broad beans must be “young”: the pods must snap to the touch, revealing small and tender seeds that don’t need to be peeled one by one.
The pecorino, on the other hand, must have character. Don’t look for those “table” ones that are too sweet; for May Day you need the real Romano, the one that slightly stings the tongue and that pairs divinely with a glass of Cesanese del Piglio. It’s a red wine that tastes of earth and red fruits, capable of cleansing the palate and preparing it for the next bite.
In a proper scampagnata, however, the picnic basket doesn’t stop there. Alongside the broad beans, you can’t miss the Porchetta di Ariccia, with its crunchy crust that smells of rosemary and garlic, and a few slices of Pane di Genzano, strictly wood-fired. It’s the celebration of simplicity, where the quality of the ingredients replaces any complex culinary technique.
Where to Escape for an Unforgettable May Day#
The secret to truly enjoying this day is to avoid the most obvious destinations. While the meadows of Villa Pamphili in Rome get crowded to the limit, I choose to push a little further.
One of my favorite destinations is the Cerveteri area, where between one Etruscan necropolis and another, very green valleys open up, ideal for spreading a blanket. Here the wind that comes from the sea mitigates the heat of the afternoon, making the experience pleasant and regenerating. Alternatively, I recommend the Viterbo Tuscia, around Caprarola or Sutri: here nature is wilder and the link with peasant cuisine is still very strong.
If you are looking for a more convivial atmosphere, the Castelli Romani still offer authentic corners. Avoid the center of Frascati and look for small farms near Lanuvio or Genzano that open their vineyards for the occasion. They often provide tables and wine, leaving you free to bring your own basket.
Grandmother’s Tips for the Perfect Outing#
- Choosing the broad beans: When you buy them, look for bright green pods without dark spots. If they don’t break with a sharp sound when bent, they are old.
- The cheese: Buy it in whole pieces, not already cut. Pecorino Romano oxidizes quickly and loses that characteristic sheep’s milk scent if it stays too long in contact with the air.
- The wine: If you can, bring a local wine. The link between the volcanic soil of Lazio and the flavors of the picnic is something that cannot be explained, it must be tasted.
- Respect for the land: It’s simple but fundamental advice. Always carry a bag with you for the discarded pods and waste. The beauty of these places depends only on us.
My May Day celebrations are all about embracing the simple pleasures in life, from the sound of broad bean pods opening to the taste of salt on my skin. If you enjoyed this, you’ll love my other post about how I spent a May Day in the vineyards of Lazio, where I savored the authentic flavors of the region - including the perfect pairing of broad beans and Pecorino cheese. Discover the magic of Lazio’s May Day traditions.