Sardinia is not an island; it is a continent of rock and wind that tests you at every kilometer. If you are looking for the glamour of Porto Cervo, you have turned the wrong way. Here, time has a rhythm dictated by the slow breath of the sea carving the limestone. White cliffs plunge into the blue, vertical and indifferent to fleeting trends. You don’t mess with this landscape. For those looking to traverse similar majestic landscapes, my colleague Marco has a wonderful guide to the Bernina Express, a scenic train ride that showcases the breathtaking vertical beauty of the Swiss Alps. The Ultimate Vertical Adventure: Exploring the Bernina Express
As my colleague Martina recently explored in her article about the Sibillini Mountains, Italy’s best-kept secret for spring outdoor adventures, she discovered the country’s lush beauty amidst the blossoming trails. I, on the other hand, have been trekking through the rugged landscape of Sardinia’s Supramonte. The air is filled with the scent of wild myrtle and the acrid smell of rubber scorched by the intense heat of the rocks under the sun. Reaching Cala Luna is a prize that the land grants you only if you are willing to truly sweat. There are no plastic umbrellas or noisy bars; there is only the millennial silence of caves looking out at the horizon. It is a raw and honest place. To experience the breathtaking scenery of Italy’s lesser-known mountains, be sure to check out Martina’s guide to hiking the blossoming trails of the Sibillini Mountains, a hidden gem waiting to be explored: A Hidden Gem for Spring: Hiking the Blossoming Trails of the Sibillini Mountains.
The Trail of Effort: from Cala Fuili to Cala Luna#
My favorite way to reach this gem is by land, starting from Cala Fuili. It is a trek of about two hours that winds through the densest and most fragrant Mediterranean macchia on the island.
The trail is a labyrinth of limestone and juniper roots that requires solid legs and a pinch of determination. Once you clear the last bend, the view of the beach from above takes your breath away, with that crescent of golden sand that looks painted between the green of the vegetation and the blue of the water. It reminded me a lot of the wild spirit I found in Marettimo, in the remote heart of the Egadi, where rock and silence rule in the same way. It’s a different sea, but with the same rugged soul.
Things that annoy me: tourists in flip-flops#
Here is my local warning: those who think they can tackle this trail in pool flip-flops. Sardinian rock is sharp as a razor and does not forgive superficiality; please, wear serious hiking boots or stay on the boat. Respect for the territory starts with the shoes you wear.
Ghosts in the Blue: the Grotta del Bue Marino#
Just around the corner from Cala Luna lies the entrance to another world: the Grotta del Bue Marino. It owes its name to the monk seal (“sea ox”), which until the 1980s chose these water galleries to give birth to its young.
Today the seal is gone, but what remains is a labyrinth of stalactites and stalagmites reflecting in underground lakes of incredible transparency. You can visit it with the large boats departing from Cala Gonone, which often make a technical stop right here before dropping you off at Cala Luna. It is a ghostly and beautiful experience, where the sound of the sea transforms into a deep and rhythmic echo. If you are lucky, the morning light creates patterns of reflections on the walls that look like water hieroglyphs.
Beyond the Sea: the Supramonte and the Gorropu Gorge#
If after a day of salt you crave a different kind of vertigo, turn your back to the sea and look inland. Here opens the Supramonte, a land of shepherds and legends that hides the Gorropu Gorge.
It is one of the deepest canyons in Europe, with walls exceeding 500 meters in height and boulders polished by the river that look like giant eggs. The silence here is different from that of the sea caves; it is a mountain silence, dry and interrupted only by the flight of some golden eagle. It is a demanding trek that will make you understand how Sardinia is actually an island of land, more than water. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, because the sun in the canyon is unforgiving.
Dorgali and the Red of the Oddoene Valley#
Returning to civilization, stop in Dorgali, a village that guards the artisan soul of this region. Walking through the narrow streets, the prevailing sound is that of silence, interrupted only by the distant hum of some filigree or leather workshop.
Stop at a local bakery for freshly baked pane carasau; its crunch is the authentic sound of rural Sardinia. My insider tip? Head to the Oddoene Valley for a Cannonau tasting directly from small local producers. It is a wine that tastes of sun and hard earth, perfect to accompany a plate of culurgiones with sauce or the classic porceddu roasted on a spit.
Sardinia gives you nothing for free, but it gives you back everything you have lost in civilization. You have to know how to listen to the sound of the pebbles sucking the wave inside the caves. The rock is in no hurry, and after an hour here, you won’t be either. It is a return to the bone of the earth.
See you soon, Luca