There are places where silence is not just the absence of noise, but a tangible, almost sacred presence that wraps around everything. The Isola di San Giulio, which emerges like a stone sanctuary from the tranquil waters of Lake Orta, is exactly this: a portal to another dimension.
Hello everyone, I’m Luca. Today I want to take you to discover what Italians call the “Cinderella” of the lakes, a gem that doesn’t need gilded grand hotels or twenty-euro spritzes to shine. While the international crowd flocks to the shores of Lake Como for a mandatory selfie, Lake Orta (or Cusio, as the locals call it) guards a millenary energy that invites slowing down. If you’re looking for another lacustrine enchantment where cars have been banished in favor of nature’s breath, I recommend reading my account of the silent serenade of Monte Isola.
The Legend of Dragons and the Cloak#
The history of the island looks like it came out of an epic poem. It is said that in the 4th century, the rock was infested with horrible snakes and dragons, symbols of dark and pagan forces. Saint Julius, a Greek saint fleeing persecution, decided to Christianize the place. Finding no one willing to ferry him, he spread his cloak over the waters and used it as a miraculous raft to reach the island.
With only the power of prayer, he drove out the monstrous creatures and founded the hundredth church of his life. Today the dragons are gone, but that sense of ancestral mystery has remained trapped between the walls of the ancient canonical houses. It’s an atmosphere of temporal suspension that you will find in other villages that seem to defy the centuries, such as Calcata Vecchia.
The Way of Silence and Meditation#
The definitive experience on San Giulio is the circular path that embraces the entire island. It is a single paved road that changes soul depending on the direction in which you walk it.
- The Way of Silence: Walking it in one direction, you will encounter signs with aphorisms on the importance of being quiet and listening. “Silence is the language of love”, “In silence one accepts and understands”.
- The Way of Meditation: If you walk it in the opposite direction, the same signs (on the back) will offer profound reflections on the inner life.
It is a rare exercise in mindfulness. Walking among the moss-covered walls and wrought-iron gates that hide secret gardens, the heartbeat seems to slow down to synchronize with that of the lake. If you love cities made of stone and meditative silences, don’t miss Alessandro’s guide to Ascoli Piceno.
The Basilica and the Black Marble Ambo#
The spiritual heart is the magnificent Basilica di San Giulio, a masterpiece of Piedmontese Romanesque. Entering here means taking a leap into the 12th century. My secret tip is not to limit yourself to looking at the altar, but to stop in front of the Ambo. It is carved in a very rare black-green marble from Oira, a local stone that seems to vibrate with its own light. The bas-reliefs depict mythological creatures, griffins, and eagles fighting: a touch of wild chaos in a place of absolute order.
Look also for the so-called “Dragon Skin” kept in the basilica. In reality, it is a huge prehistoric whale bone found in the lake centuries ago, but for popular devotion, it is the physical proof of the Saint’s victory against the forces of evil.
The Mater Ecclesiae Abbey and the Embroidery of Prayer#
The island is not an abandoned museum; it is a living community. The Mater Ecclesiae Abbey houses a community of cloistered Benedictine nuns. Until a few years ago, it was led by the charismatic Mother Anna Maria Cànopi, one of the most important spiritual figures of our time.
The nuns spend their days in prayer and in the restoration of ancient fabrics and sacred vestments. Their embroidery work is famous worldwide for its almost superhuman precision. It is this discreet and constant presence that makes the air of San Giulio so different from that of any other lake island.
Luca’s Pet Peeves: It’s Not a Photo Set#
I want to be honest with you: one of my biggest pet peeves is seeing the Isola di San Giulio reduced to a simple “wedding backdrop.” Orta is beautiful, but I detest those who arrive on the island only to take posed photos without dedicating even a minute to the silence required by the signs.
I detest hearing cell phone ringtones or the shouts of tourists who don’t understand that this is, first of all, a place of prayer. If you want to party, stay on the mainland. The island must be crossed with humility, almost on tip-toe. I felt this same need for respect for nature and the sacredness of places exploring the wild heart of Marettimo.
Practical Tips for the Cusio Explorer#
- Smart Logistics: Don’t take the large boats. In Piazza Motta in Orta, look for the small motorboats of the “Motoscafisti.” They cost a little more, but the experience is much more intimate, and they will drop you at the island pier with more discretion. The silence of the island is a gift to be guarded. But if after so much peace you feel the need to change pace and breathe the crisp mountain air, Marco has written a wonderful guide on a road trip through the textile villages of Biellese, right at the gates of Valsesia.
- The Magic Moment: Arrive around 9:00 AM. When the lake mist still wraps around the abbey domes, the island seems to float in the void.
- Heart Coordinates: 45.796° N, 8.400° E (Island boarding pier).
- My Secret Tip: Once you return to Orta, go up to the Sacro Monte. It is a UNESCO devotional path with 20 frescoed chapels. From up here, you will have the most beautiful zenithal view of the island: it will look like a stone ship ready to sail the waters towards the infinite.
Isola di San Giulio reminds us that, in a world that screams, silence is the only true act of rebellion.
Stay listening.
See you soon, Luca