If you are looking for a place where the blue of the sea meets the dazzling white of a perched village, you don’t necessarily have to fly to Greece. Halfway between Rome and Naples is a place that has stolen my family’s heart: Sperlonga.
I am Elena, and this village, officially among the most beautiful in Italy, is a labyrinth of whitewashed alleys that smell of saltiness and Mediterranean cuisine. It’s the place where the rhythm really slows down and children can rediscover the pleasure of running in the square between a gelato and a swim. For us, Sperlonga is the “white pearl” of Lazio, a destination that gives peace and beauty in every season.
My husband Lorenzo always says that Sperlonga is the only city where he doesn’t mind climbing stairs, because every step offers a new glimpse of the sea. Update: If you love places that preserve a magical and somewhat mysterious soul, I recently discovered the haunting charm of the Park of the Monsters in Bomarzo, an unmissable stop in the heart of Lazio that my children absolutely adored.
Kid-Friendly Beaches: Between Sand and Myth#
The true strength of Sperlonga for us parents is the quality of its beaches, which have received the Blue Flag for years. The sand is fine and golden, ideal for Leonardo’s sculptures, and the seabed slopes gently, allowing Beatrice to splash safely.
You can choose between two distinct coasts:
- Ponente Beach: It is the closest to the modern area and the most convenient for those with small children, thanks to the numerous establishments equipped with every comfort.
- Levante Beach: It extends southwards and is dominated by the silhouette of Emperor Tiberius’s cave. It is wilder and more suggestive, perfect for long morning walks when the air is still fresh.
A Journey into History: The Villa and Cave of Tiberius#
Right at the end of the Levante beach is one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Italy: the Villa of Tiberius. Don’t imagine a boring museum; it’s an open-air imperial residence set in the rock.
The children will be left speechless in front of the natural sea cave, where the emperor held his legendary banquets. Inside the National Archaeological Museum, we showed Leonardo and Beatrice the colossal sculptures that decorated the cave, such as the one of Ulysses blinding Polyphemus. Telling these legends while looking at the sea makes history alive and unforgettable for them.
If this immersion in archaeology has sparked your curiosity, know that continuing the journey south you can encounter other titanic wonders. Another unmissable stop for those who, like us, love traveling through time.
Living the Village: Logistic Tips for Parents#
Going up to the ancient village at sunset is a ritual. But beware: here the challenges (and beauties) of Sperlonga begin.
- Stroller vs. Baby Carrier: This is my most important advice. The ancient village is a labyrinth of stairs. If you have infants or very small children, leave the stroller in the hotel or car and use a carrier or baby backpack. We did this with Beatrice and enjoyed every corner without having to lift kilos of metal and wheels at every ramp. For the promenade and the lower area, however, the stroller is perfect.
- Torre Truglia: It is the white tower that divides the two beaches. It is the icon of Sperlonga and an incredible viewpoint. Leonardo calls it “the sea princess’s castle.” It’s the perfect place for family photos.
- Aperitif in the Square: Piazza della Libertà is Sperlonga’s living room. Stop for a drink while the children run (safely, being a pedestrian zone) between the tables. It’s the beating heart of the village where the atmosphere becomes magical in the evening.
Local Flavors: Not Just Fish#
If you are arriving in Sperlonga after exploring the Capital, perhaps following my advice on the best trattorias in Rome, you will discover a more maritime but equally straightforward cuisine here. Don’t miss the Tiella di Gaeta (a sort of rustic pie filled with octopus or vegetables) which is found in almost all gourmet shops: it’s the perfect packed lunch for the beach. For children, the little restaurants in the alleys always offer very fresh fish cooked simply, which even the most difficult palates love.
Sperlonga is an embrace of light and blue. It’s the place where the holiday becomes a moment of true connection, where the white of the houses reflects the joy of the moments spent together.
Aggiornamento: If you’re planning a summer trip to the Dolomites, you might want to check out the region’s culinary delights. Since writing this, Martina explored the best of Trentino-Alto-Adige’s gastronomic scene in her recent post, Your Dolomites Summer Guide, where she shares insider tips on where to eat and drink.