There is a curve in the road as you leave the bustling ports of La Spezia behind, a moment when the air suddenly changes. It becomes salt-drenched and scented with the wild rosemary that clings to the limestone cliffs. This is the entrance to the Gulf of Poets, a crescent of coastline so hauntingly beautiful that it drew the likes of Byron, Shelley, and Petrarch to its shores, and as my colleague Luca recently explored in his article about Tellaro, it’s just one of the many reasons why this region is home to some of Italy’s most stunning destinations.
Ciao, I am Sofia. While many allow themselves to be swept away by the vibrant, vertical chaos of the Cinque Terre, I prefer to linger here, in the quiet embrace of Lerici and Tellaro, which reminds me of the charming destinations I’ve written about, like the one in my guide to Noto. These are the places where the light turns to liquid sapphire at dusk, and where the only sound is the rhythmic heartbeat of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Lerici: The Golden Fortress#
Lerici, with its stunning medieval architecture and breathtaking views of the Ligurian Sea, is often referred to as the “Golden Fortress” of the Italian coast. Its rich history and picturesque landscapes make it a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Italy. My colleague Luca has a wonderful guide to another impressive fortress in Italy, which he describes as a dramatic hidden gem with a fortress, showcasing the diverse and awe-inspiring fortresses that can be found throughout the country.
Lerici is often called the “Golden Pearl” of the gulf. As you arrive, the first thing you see is the massive 13th-century castle presiding over the harbor. It’s a medieval sentinel that has watched over lovers and poets for centuries, a phenomenon my colleague Alessandro has also explored in his writing, particularly in the charming town of Ascoli Piceno, which embodies the essence of medieval Italy.
For a romantic afternoon, I suggest wandering through the Carrugi (narrow alleys) of the historic center. Stop at Piazza Garibaldi, find a table at one of the small bars, and order a glass of local Vermentino dei Colli di Luni. Watch the fishing boats sway in the harbor and feel the history in the stones.
Sofia’s Secret Spot: Walk far along the sea wall toward the Castle. There is a small tunnel that leads to a hidden beach called La Marinella. At sunset, the Castle glows above you, and the beach is often empty—perfect for a stolen moment.
The Walk of Inspiration: Lerici to Tellaro#
There is a coastal road connecting Lerici to Tellaro, but for those with romance in their hearts, I recommend the walk. It winds through silver-green olive groves and offers glimpses of hidden coves like Fiascherino, where DH Lawrence once lived.
As you walk, listen to the cicadas and breathe in the scent of the Mediterranean scrub. This is the path where inspiration was born. It is a slow walk, about an hour, and it prepares your soul for the magic of Tellaro.
Tellaro: The Village of the Octopus#
If Lerici is a pearl, Tellaro is a diamond. It has been voted one of the Borghi più belli d’Italia, and for good reason. It is a cluster of pastel-pink and burnt-orange houses that seem to emerge directly from the jagged rocks.
There is no “beach” here in the traditional sense. Instead, there are smooth stone ledges where the waves break with a soft roar. I love to sit on the rocks near the Church of San Giorgio, which is built so close to the water that the spray often dampens its walls.
The legend of Tellaro tells of a giant octopus that rang the church bells in the middle of the night to warn the villagers of a pirate attack. Today, the village remains just as protective of its silence and its secrets.
Romantic Dining and Staying#
- Dining at Locanda Miranda: If you want a culinary experience that matches the beauty of the view, this is it. It’s tucked away in the upper part of Tellaro and specializes in refined seafood.
- Aperitivo at Bar Marina: Down by the water in Tellaro, this is where you go for a Spritz as the sun dips behind the Portovenere promontory across the bay.
- Staying at Hotel Byron: Located right on the water in Lerici, it offers terraces that make you feel like you are floating over the gulf.
A Poetic Farewell#
The Gulf of Poets is not a place for “sightseeing.” It is a place for feeling. It is about the way the wind ruffles the pages of your book as you sit on a stone wall, the way the salt stays on your skin, and the way the orange light fades into a deep, starlit violet.
Lerici and Tellaro remind us that the most beautiful things in life are often found when we stop looking for them and simply start living them.
With love,
Sofia